Where to Dine in Rome
Here are some of our restaurant recommendations, in various parts of Rome:
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Fr. Paul and friends at Piccolo Mondo on the Via Veneto
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Near the American Embassy and Santa Susanna
ANTICO RISTORANTE DEL GIGLIO
Via Torino 137, tel: 06.488.1606. Closed Sundays.
Located between the Main Train Station or "Temini" and the Rome
Opera House, this restaurant is very convenient if you are staying
near the station or on or near the Nazionale. A delightful restaurant
that is also a lot of fun, it specializes in classic Roman and
Lazio region cooking. Moderate.
COLLINE EMILLIANE
Via Avignonesi 22, tel: 06.871.538, Closed on Fridays.
Located south of the Piazza Barbarini, the street is directly behind Planet Hollywood and you will need to walk down about a block and a half. A small crowded restaurant that requires reservations, the food is excellent and specializes in cusine form the Emelliane region of Italy. Try their veal in a cream sauce served over a bed of mashed potatoes. Moderate to Expensive.
"DA GIOVANNI" Via Antonio Salandra 1, tel. 06.485.950. Closed on Sundays and all of August. Located just two blocks from Santa Susanna Church -- on the corner of Via XX Settembre and Via Salandra. A family run restaurant -- you'll be greeted by Signora Vitucci (mention Fr. Greg's name and she'll smile) and her son Fabrizzio. The waiters' names are Vito and Andrea (brothers) and Antonio. The Agnolotti (pasta stuffed with veal) is the best -- as is the cannelonni when they have it. Fr. Greg likes the roasted chicken, but ask for a breast. Fr. Jerry likes anything with pancetta. The fish is very good too and they'll de-bone it right at the table and pour olive oil over it is if you say yes.
THE ST. REGIS GRAND HOTEL is located right across the street from Santa Susanna. (via V.E. Orlando, 3, 00185 Rome). Tel: 06.4709.2712. They have a wonderful restaurant called Vivendo - expensive, but worth it. They also have a beautiful cocktail bar, and high tea on Sunday afternoons. A great place for elegant dining, for weddings and anniversaries, and for just watching the people.
RISTORANTE DA VICENZO, Via Castefidardo, 4/6 (off Via XX Settembre) Just down the street from our apartment and from Santa Susanna. A great great fish restaurant! 06.484.596. Closed Sundays and all of August. Clams, mussels, smoked swordfish, penne all'arrabbiata (hot pasta: peppers,tomatoes, garlic). Baked sea bass or flounder. Saltimbocca alla romana (veal and ham cooked in a wine sauce), grilled pork chops, roast chicken. Fabulous desserts.
GEORGE'S
Via Marche 7, tel: 06.420.84575, Closed Sundays.
Located on the street behind the Excelsior Hotel which sits on
the Via Veneto. This restaurant not only has a magnificent patio
but a piano bar as well. The setting is elegant and the service
is absolutely wonderful. Specializing in classic Roman dishes.
Expensive.
GIOVANNI
Via Marche 64, tel: 06.482.1834. Closed Friday evenings and
Saturdays.
Located on the street behind the Excelsior Hotel which sits on the Via Veneto. Family run and very elegant restaurant, the service is excellent and setting is very elegant. Traditional Roman dishes done with a bit of a flare. Expensive. Good for special events, like lunch after First Communion!
GIRARROSTO FIORENTINO Via Sicilia 46, tel: 06.428.80.660. Always open. Need Reservations. Near the American Embassy. They have good beef here -- it's from Tuscany. Fabulous veal, fish and the best potatoes and antipasti. Highly recommended. A/C. This is one of the Paulist Fathers' current favorite!
GIRARROSTO TOSCANO
Via Campania 29, tel: 06.482.1899. Closed on Wednesdays.
Located on the street that runs along the inside of the Aurelian wall by the Villa Borghese, just down from the Porta Pinciana. This recommendation is from friends at the American Embassy. Everyone wants a good steak, but here in Italy steak is a Tuscan dish, as Romans eat veal. So as you may not get to Florence on this trip, here is a recommendation. Expensive!
HOSTARIA GIULIO Via della Barchetta, 19. Phone: 06.6880.6466. Closed Sundays. Moderate. Fabulous pastas: homemade ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta cheese, fettuccine with garlickly pesto, orecchiette tossed in winter with broccoli and in summer with fresh tomatoes and mozarella. Gnocchi homemade daily. Veal and Fish also.
HOSTERIA ULDERICO A SAN CLEMENTE, Via San Giovanni in Laterano, 106. 06.7045.0935. No Sat. Dinner or Sunday. Great for lunch after touring my favorite Churches (San Clemente, Quattro Coronati, San Giovanni in Laterano, etc.)
HOSTARIA DA NERONE, Via delle Terme di Tito, 96. Good for lunch after touring the Forum or the Coliseum. 06.481.7952. Closed Sundays. Antipasti display. Homemade ravioli.Fettuccine alla Nerone, a creamy dish with salami, ham, peas, mushrooms and eggs. Chicken with tomatoes and peppers win a wine sauce. Roast Rabbit.
IL GIARDINO
Via Zucchelli 29, tel: 06.488.5202, Closed Mondays.
Located just south of the Piazza Barberini, walk down the Tritone a block or so and take a right. While some of the waiters may try to keep you in the front rooms, where tourists often end up, go up the stairs and keep moving toward the back of the restaurant. In the very back is a magnificent garden that is covered and heated in the winter and open in the summer. This is where you want to eat. Great pastas, their spaghetti con vongole veraci (or spaghett with fresh clams) has some red pepper flakes in it which gives it a zip and their linguine con limone is pasta in a wonderful lemon cream sauce. Moderately priced. During the summer open on Sunday evenings for dinner, but not for lunch.
LA PENTOLACCIA
Via Flavia 38, tel: 06.483.477 OR 06.485.477, Closed Sundays
Located on the Via Flavia, a side street that runs parallel to Venti Settembre about two blocks from the Church. This is a small gem of a restaurant with some wonderful food. Fr. Greg especially likes the Bresaola and the Cod with pine nuts. But they also have wonderful beef, lamb and pastas. Given its small size, it's always good to make a reservation on Friday and Saturday nights. Because of the many British hotels on the Flavia, La Pentolaccia fills up early.
LA PIAZZETTA, Vicolo del Buon Consiglio, 23/a (at the Forum end of Via Cavour.) Tel: 06.699.1640. Closed Sundays. Reservations advised. Very secluded. Shaded terrace. Service not hurried. Herb focaccia bread. Creamy risotto, perfumed with a touch of ginger and zucchini flowers. Pasta alla Norma (tomatoes, mozzarella, eggplant). Grilled fish.
MARCO POLO
Largo Santa Susanna 198, tel. 06.482.4869, Closed Sunday evenings.
A large coffee bar located just around the corner from the Church
of Santa Susanna, this is the place to go after visiting the church,
for coffee, a sandwich, or desert. And because they are so close
to us, they serve American coffee as well as Italian. A great
place to go after Mass, and tell them that you have just come
from Santa Susanna. It is here that they sell "Dolce del Papa,"
an intriguing cake made with the pope's picture on it, that you
can take home with you. Inexpensive.
 TAVERNA FLAVIA
Via Flavia 91, tel: 06.474.5214, Closed Sundays and Saturdays
for Lunch.
Located on the Via Flavia, a side street that runs parallel to Venti Settembre about two blocks from the Church. Mimo who owns this wonderful restaurant is always sitting behind the cash register and his extensive staff will take very good care of you. This was a favorite hang out for American movie stars in the 1960s and 1970s when Rome was the location for many American films, and the walls are covered with autographed photos. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton dined here regularly when they filmed Cleopatra and there is a back dining room filled with Elizabeth Taylor memorabilia. Enough about the atmosphere, the food is quite good. The house specialty is a pasta called "Penne Gloria Satta," made with shrimp, olives and saffron. The salads are extra-ordinary here, especially the "Elizabetha" named for Elizabeth Taylor. It is made of fresh arugola, shrimp and baby mozzarella and it is out of this world! All of their fish and meat dishes are wonderful. It can be bit Expensive but it is worth it! Fathers Jerry and Greg both recommend it. Father Greg says its a great place for a small wedding reception!
"TULLIO" Via S. Nicola da Tolentino, 26, 00187 Roma, Closed Sundays, recently opened new room. Ristorante dal 1950, Te. 39/06.474.5560 www. tullioristorante.it This is an abolutely fabulous restaurant. Fr. Greg was just there on November 23, 2004 and had a terrific meal of incredible Red Wine from Tuscany, two tiny carciofi (artichokes steamed with fresh olive oil) polpinette (tiny meatballs made with veal) and porcini mushrooms, plus a green salad, plus a wonderful caffé machinato (espresso with a tiny bit of steamed milk). This is a great restaurant of Cucina Toscana (the Tuscany kitchen) with very good roasted beef and veal, plus fabulous fish. Reservations are a must, and later in the day or the next morning you can work out at DaBliù, an inexpensive health club next door (bring your own towel, water and soap --this isn't the US!)
Centro: Near the Campo de Fiori
AL BRIC
Via del Pelligrino 52, tel: 06.687.9533, Closed Mondays.
Located on a street that runs off of the Campo de Fiori by the Cancelleria (the opposite direction from San Andrea towards St. Peters). A new addition to Rome the restaurant is owned and run by Roberto, the son of our local wine merchant here in Rome. Because Roberto grew up in his father's wine business, he has designed a restaurant designed around fine Italian wine. Each night the courses are designed for wines that are highlighted. If you wanted to try a particular kind of wine and have a dish that complimented it, this is the place to go. Small, modern and yet intimate. Comes highly recommended. Expensive.
COSTANZA
Piazza Paradiso 63/65, tel: 06.681.717, Closed Sundays.
Just around the corner from the Church of San Andrea di Valle, it is more a street than a piazza. It sits over the Theater of Pompey but while the walls of the restaurant are stone and quite intimate, there are no ruins to view. However the food is excellent and the daily pasta special alone is the worth the trip to the restaurant. A basic Roman menu of both fish and meat. In the warm weather there is a small but crowded patio for diners. Moderate to Expensive.
DA PANCRAZIO
Piazza del Biscione 92, tel: 06.686.1246, Closed Wednesdays.
Located just off the Campo de Fiori, towards San Andrea Di Valle. A good basic meat and seafood restaurant in the Centro. While the atmosphere is grotto-like, the particular fascination of this restaurant is that it built directly on top of the Theater of Pompey where Julius Ceasar was assasinated. Go downstairs to use the restrooms and see some of the ruins of the theater, in fact if you can dine downstairs, all the better, although sitting in the Piazza, you get to people-watch as you eat! Expensive.
RISTORANTE PIERLUIGI
Piazza de'Ricci, tel: 06.686.1302, Closed Mondays.
Located on the Corso Vittorio Emmanuale, just past the Chiesa Nuova on the way to St. Peters. A small intimate restaurant with a large outside patio in the piazza, in which to dine in good weather. The pasta and the fish here are quite good. This is traditional favorite of students from the Pontifical North American College. Moderately priced.
Centro: Near the Parliament/Pantheon/Corso
ABRUZZI
Via del Vaccaro, tel: 06.679.3897, Closed Saturdays.
Located next to the Church of the Holy Apostles, walk past it, and as you come to the next street, the front door of the restaurant will be directly in front of you. This is the hang out for American priest students studying in Rome as their residence is just around the corner, near the Trevi Fountain. A simple and classic restaurant with large prints of Rome on the walls, it specializes in cuisine from the Abruzzi region of Italy. The waiters have been there for years and are very gracious. Try the pasta amatraciana -- it's fabulous (tomatoes and pancetta). The fish here is good and the spaghetti with clams (con vongole) is excellent. Be sure to try the Amaro Abruzzi which they will put on the table after the meal. It is flavored with oranges. Moderately priced.
DAL POMPIERE In the Jewish Quarter: Via S. Maria del Calderari, 38, off Via Arenula. Tel: 06.686.8377 Closed on Sundays and July 20-Aug.31. Charming restaurant on the second floor of the 17th century Cenci Bolognetti Palace. Don't miss the carciofo alla giudia for antipasto: a fried artichoke that looks like a pressed flower. -- also zucchini blossoms stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies, then deep-fried. Roasted lamb, baccala (salt-dried cod) etc. Fr. Greg has eaten there, and it is recommended in: Great Eats Italy by Sandra Gustafson (Florence, Rome and Venice) I highly recommend it!
"TOULA" Via della Lupa, 29/b Te. 06/687.3489 Fax 06/687.1115 toula2@libero.it www.toula.it Fr. Greg highly recommends this restaurant for a special evening. The Direttore Aldo Arrigoni is a bravo personne and a great host! You will have an exceptional meal. Just tonight (Dec. 22) Fr. Greg had a fabulous antipasto zuppa (just a cup), plus gnocchetti di zucca (pumpkin) pasta, and an incredible Rombo (Turbo white fish), plus his very favorite dessert, Nocciolo gelato (Hazelnut Ice Cream). This is a great restaurant for a large party also, like a wedding reception. Walk, don't run, to "Toula"!!!
AL 59 RISTORANTE DA GIUSEPPE Via Angelo Brunetti, 59 near the Piazza del Popolo. Economical. Reservations essential for dinner (06.321.9019). Bolognese cooking! Try the tortellini with pumpkin or the spinach ravioli. Great desserts.
LA FONTANELLA, Largo della Fontanella Borghese, 86. 06.687.1582. Closed on Mondays. Expensive. Gorgeous décor. Abruzzo inspired. Antipasti good. Insalata Fontanella: argula, cheese, mushrooms, prosciuto in a mustard vinaigrette. Raw mushrooms with fresh slices of Parmesan cheese. Spinach salad. Zucchini ravioli, crepes filled with black ruffles. Spaghetti with seafood. Paparadelle al sugo di lepre (wide noodles in a robust hare sauce). Roasted and grilled Danish and Chianti beef, game and truffles in season, baby Abruzzo lamb, A warm vanilla soufflè draped in rich chocolate sauce, Fabulous repuation!
IL FALCHETTO
Via Montecatani 12, tel: 06.679.1160, Closed Fridays.
Located between the Church of San Ignazio and the Corso. A classic Roman restaurant that can get quite crowded and the table are close together. Moderately priced.
LA CANACCIA
Via della Guglia 63. No telephone!
Located off the Piazza Montecitorio near the Parliament. You really
have to look for this restaurant because they have no telephone,
but our friends at the American Embassy rave about the food and
many Italian politicians regularly dine here. The owner's name
is Salvatore and he serves wonderful fish and pasta "alla norma."
Moderately priced.
LA SACRESTIA:
Via del Seminario 89, tel: 06.679.7581, Closed Wednesdays.
A wonderful place for pizza, located just a block from the Pantheon on the way to San Ignazio. The pizzas and calzones are great but the service can at times be slow.
L'EAU VIVE
Via Monterone 85, tel: 06.688.01095. Closed Sundays.
Located between the back of the Pantheon and the Largo Argentina. Run by and Order of Belgian nuns. French food appears to be the specialty, but at 10 PM each evening the sisters hold evening prayer right in the middle of the restaurant and incorporate all of the guests. A unique experience and a place that Father Greg sometimes takes people who are visiting Rome. Not as good as it used to be.
PAPA GIOVANNI
Via dei Sediari 4, tel: 06.686.5308. Closed Sundays.
Between the Church of San Andrea di Valle and the Piazza Navona, some of our friends at the Embassy claim that this is the best restaurant in Rome. Reservations are absolutely necessary. The restaurant features wine from all of Italy and all over the world. Truffles, a popular Roman dish, is a house specialty. Expensive!
PIEDRA DEL SOL
Vicolo Rossini 6, tel: 06.687.3651, Closed Mondays.
Located in a small alley behind the Parliament, it is a Mexican
restaurant. Yes we recommend a Mexican restaurant for those Americans
who have to have a Margerhita and salsa, no matter where they
are on holidays. It is not quite like Mexican restaurants at home,
but its is a reasonable copy and the only thing like it in Rome.
Inexpensive to Moderate.
TERRA DI SIENA
Piazza Pasquino 77/78, tel: 06.683.07704, Closed Sundays.
Located in a small piazza on the way towards the Tiber and St. Peter's, on the southern end of the Piazza Navona. A family owned restaurant, it specializes in Sienese and Tuscan food. Very nice and intimate setting, it specializes in grilled meat and of course, Tuscan boar. This is a special favorite of Father Greg's. Moderate.
Other Places in Rome
THE CASSIA/NORTHERN ROME
DA MAMMA ITALIA
Via Dell'Aqua Traversa 196, tel: 06.33.12.786, Closed Mondays.
Very close to Marymount International School on the Cassia, this
is a very unique restaurant. It is characterized with large comfortable
rooms and a magnificent patio in the back. Mamma herself, of oftentimes
there to greet you when your arrive. This is also a dance school
that features ballroom dance, and if you ask, you might get a
lesson. Very good food at reasonable prices. Moderate.
CASTEL SAN ANGELO/PIAZZA CAVOUR
LA PICCOLA IRPINIA
Via Pietro Cavallini, tel: 06.320.4508, Closed Sundays.
Located between the Tiber and Piazza Cavour just across from the
Ministry of Justice. This restaurant features dishes from southern
Italy in Irpinia and specializes in egg based pasta. Nice atmosphere
and good service. Moderate.
SPANISH STEPS
ALLA RAMPA
Piazza Mignanelli 18, tel: 06.678.1900, Closed Mondays.
Located in the piazza behind the column of the Immaculate Conception and the American Express office, just down from the Spanish Steps. This is one of Father Paul's favorites and where he takes visitors for lunch. The restaurant has the most extensive antipasto bar in Rome, over one hundred different items. While many diners have this for a first course, it is so extensive that it makes a magnificent main course. Sit inside or outside under the large umbrella and street entertainers will come by. Excellent food, if you are in the mood for pasta, try the gnocchetti verdi alla gorgonzola. This is baby green gnocchi (made with spinach) in a gorgonzola cream sauce and is home made. Everything is very good and expensive, unless you settle for the antipasto bar! Cash only, no credit cards.
CIAMPINI
Viale Trinita dei Monti 1, tel: 06.678.5678, Open from 9 AM
to 2 PM.
Located at the top of the Spanish Steps. You are at the Spanish
Steps and you would like to stop for coffee or a sandwich called
a "pannini" or perhaps some delicious home made ice cream. This
is the place for you.
TRASTEVERE
LA TANA DE NOANTRI
Via della Paglia 1/2/3, tel: 06. 589.6575, Closed Tuesdays.
Located just off the Piazza di San Egidio and not very far from
Santa Maria in Trastevere. This is wonderful place for pizza and
pasta and they specialize in bruscchetta, an oven roasted toast
with wonderful toppings. On Sunday evenings, Father Greg likes
to take people to the San Egidio evening prayer at Santa Maria
in Trastevere at 8:30PM and then go to this restaurant for pizza
and wine. A wonderful experience and they take reservations. Inexpensive
to Moderate.
GALEASSI
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere 3, tel: 06. 580.3775, Closed
Mondays.
Located right in the central piazza of Trastevere, a fabulous
site for people watching, it specializes in food from the Abbruzzi
region of Italy. In the Spring or Summer this is a delightful
place to be, but being in the very center of one of the most popular
spots in Rome, it can be a bit pricey. Moderate to Expensive.
VATICAN
TRE PUPAZZI
Via Borgo Pio 183, tel: 06.686.8371.
Located down the Borgo Pio that begins in front of the Santa Anna Gate to the side of St. Peter's Square. You need to walk about 3 or 4 short blocks down the street and its on the right hand side. A family run restaurant that also serves wonderful pizza at lunchtime, it is frequented by a number of American bishops when they come to Rome. If you are at St. Peter's and looking for a good place for lunch try this restaurant. However as they get quite crowded, try to get there by 1 or 1:15 PM. Moderate.
VIA APPIA NOVA/GRANDE RACCORDO
RINALDO ALL'ACQUEDOTTO
Via Appia Nuova 1267, tel: 06.718.3910, Closed Tuesdays.
Located on the Via Appia Nuova before the Raccordo and on the way to Ciappino Airport. A popular Roman restaurant with beautiful terraces and ample parking. Moderate.
There are many, many, many more good restaurants. Do check out Sandra Gustafson's book. And leave time for a nice walk after lunch or dinner. Go to bed early. Get up early.
Try not to let the smoking bother you. More and more restaurants are not allowing smoking or are having a no smoking section. Still, if you're from California, the smoke will be immediately noticeable
And if you have found a favorite restaurant in Rome and want
to tell us about it and what you had, please send
us an email!
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