How to Dine in Rome

Most restaurants don't serve dinner until at least 7:30 PM. Lunch usually begins at 12:30 PM. You can always go to a Bar (a "Coffee" Bar) and order a sandwich (panino). If you sit outside, you'll get charged more, but it's fun to watch people. NEVER, EVER leave your purse/camera/backpack alone. Ever. Not even in a Church. It will be gone when you get back. Most crime in Rome is petty: pickpocketing on the buses or simple theft. Watch out for the gypsies who will distract you and take your wallet. They're less and less however.

You'll seldom get butter or ice in a restaurant, but you can ask if you really want it and you might get it. There is no Diet Coke -- it's called Coca Cola Lite. You won't get coffee with your meal -- or even with your dessert -- coffee is a separate course (caffe is espresso; cappuccino is espresso with steamed milk). There are no Starbucks. Italians wouldn't think of walking around with a cup of coffee and the portions are much smaller -- and the espresso is LESS strong.

The Courses. All the portions are less. And with the amount of walking you do, you'll probably lose weight before you get home. First thing to order are the water and the wine. Usually the house wine is more than delicious, but you can order a more expensive bottle. Water is always bottled: gassata (with gas, usually carbonated) or Naturale, senza gas (plain). House wine is served in liter, half liter and quarter liter pitchers. Just ask for red or white. You can order as you go along or the whole meal at the beginning. Pace yourself. You can start with an antipasto or the Primo Piatto (First Plate or Course). The Primo Piatto is usally pasta (forget about spaghetti and meatballs -- you won't find it) or eggplant parmaggiana or lasagna or risotto (although risotto is more common in the north). The Secondo Piatto is meat or fish (fish is expensive). Most beef is bland. Veal (vitello) is fabulous. Also roasted chicken. Usually these come with roasted potatoes. You can also order a salad (insalata mista -- the only dressing they have is oil and vinegar, although you might be able to get balsamic vinegar if they have it. Forget about Ranch, 1000 Island or Honey Mustard!) and/or a vegetable (spinach, green beans, whatever is on the menu or in season). The Dolce or dessert comes next. You'll probably get sick of Tiramisu, but if it's homemade (fatta in casa) it's probably very good. Mixed fruit, strawberries in season, gelato, and usually one or two very nice cakes.

Coffee Plus. Then coffee (you can get decaffeinated) or tea and a digestivo (Amaro, limoncella, Sambucco, a licorish liquer with an odd number of coffee beans for flavor). Don't overdo these -- they're delicious, but deceiving and you may wake up in the middle of the night with a headache if you drink too much.

Il Conto, Per Favore. Getting the bill sometimes requires asking for it two or three times (Faccia il conto, per favore). Don't get upset -- remember you're on vacation. Breath deeply three times. Waiters can be very nice, but if they're busy, they can also be forgetful. If something's missing, ask for it. Most restaurants take credit cards, but check the door to make sure. A few only take cash. There's a small cover charge (for the bread, etc) and a tax. Tip LESS than you do in the states. About 5% to 10% unless you're in a real fancy place and the service is extraordinary, but even then, don't overdo it. And Take Your Bill of Fare with you. Always.

Gelato. Gelato is Italian ice cream -- higher in fat, but wonderful in taste. You get a small amount anyway. There are some great places around the Trevi Fountain. The most famous is Giolitti's, around the corner from the Pantheon on Via Uffici del Vicario, 40 Art Nouveau and bright lights. Open 7AM to 2 AM.

Going Out for Pizza
A few suggestions about Pizza in Rome. While Americans love to have pizza for lunch, most Romans have pizza as their evening meal. This is because Romans have their principal or large meal at lunchtime. Many restaurants that have pizza ovens may only fire up them up in the evenings. Other places, especially in the heart of central Rome where the tourists gather, will serve pizza at lunchtime. You almost always have to ask whether they serve pizza at lunchtime. The reason is that Rome becomes very hot as Spring and Summer arrive, and the pizza oven fills the restaurant with heat. So in the summer when it is very hot, the last thing a restaurant owner wants is to raise the temperature of the room. That is why pizza ovens are often fired up, only in the evenings, especially in the summer time.

Ordinarily pizzas are individually made are about the size of a large dinner plate. So don't think about sharing a pizza as they are not large enough. And even though the pizza may look bigger than it is when it is first served, it is so thin and light, that you will discover it is just enough for one person. Pizzas in Rome are designed with standard names that represent the toppings. So you can't ask for a pepperoni pizza. The most popular pizza in Rome is a Pizza Magherita, which is your basic cheese and tomato pizza. As you read the names and the toppings, you will discover that they are clever and always very good. So Buon Appetito!

We hope this gives you some suggestions and you may want to now turn to our restaurant recommendations!